Transplanting Trumpet Vines: Tips On Moving A Trumpet Vine

Transplanting Trumpet Vines: Tips On Moving A Trumpet Vine

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By: Teo Spengler

Trumpet vine is only one of several common names for Campsis radicans. The plant is also called the hummingbird vine, trumpet creeper, and cow’s itch. This woody vine is a perennial plant native to North America and thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 4 through 9. The orange flowers are trumpet-shaped and appear on the vine from the middle of summer into fall. They attract hummingbirds and butterflies.

If you propagate the plant by taking cuttings, it is important to transplant those rooted cuttings at the correct time to give them the best chance of survival. Likewise, if you are thinking of moving a trumpet vine that is mature, timing is important. Read on for information on how to transplant a trumpet vine.

Moving a Trumpet Vine

Don’t get too worried about transplanting trumpet vine plants. The plants are very resilient, so resilient, in fact, that more people are concerned about their aggressive growth pattern than about them not doing well.

It is important to know when to transplant trumpet vines. Your best time for trumpet vine transplanting is in early spring before significant growth happens.

How to Transplant a Trumpet Vine

If you decide to go ahead and start transplanting trumpet vine plants in spring, you’ll want to cut each vine back quite a bit just before the move. Leave a few feet (1 to 1.5 m.) of the leafy growth, however, so that each plant has resources to work with. Reducing the height of the plant helps make trumpet vine transplanting manageable.

When you are moving a trumpet vine, dig in a circle around the plant’s root area to create a ball of soil and roots that will travel with the plant to its new location. Dig out a large root ball, trying to keep as much dirt attached to the roots as possible.

Place your trumpet vine’s root ball in the hole you dug in its new location. Tuck soil around the root ball and water it well. Take good care of your vine as it works to re-establish itself.

When to Transplant Trumpet Vines’ Rooted Cuttings

The timing is the same whether you are transplanting a mature plant or a rooted cutting: you want to place the plant in its new location in early spring. Deciduous plants adapt better to a new site when they are dormant, without leaves and flowers.

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How to Transplant Datura

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Daturas (Datura spp.) are usually called angel’s trumpet due to their showy, trumpet-shaped flowers. They are generally annual sprawling plants that bloom from spring through fall and die at first frost. However, some of them, like sacred thornapple (Datura wrightii) and downy thornapple (Datura inoxia var. quinquecuspida) are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and above. If you have a datura growing in your yard and want to plant it elsewhere, fall or winter is the best time to do it but they can be transplanted successfully at any time of the year.

Prepare the new planting site. Select an area with full sun or partial shade exposure. Mix a 3- to 6-inch depth of well-aged manure, compost, pine bark humus or sphagnum peat moss into the soil to a depth of 10 inches.

Water the datura with 2 to 3 gallons of water one or two days before digging it up. Trim the stems of large daturas back with pruners to 6 to 12 inches.

Push a dirt shovel into the soil all the way around the datura 4 to 6 inches away from the stems. Push the dirt shovel into the soil again and pull the handle back to lift the datura up. Leave the soil on the roots.

Dig the planting hole twice as wide as the datura root mass. Dig it to the same depth as the root mass. Set the datura in the new planting hole. Fill in around the roots with the soil that was removed from the planting hole. Pour 2 gallons of water over the soil to settle it around the roots.

Spread organic mulch around the datura to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Water it in the morning two to four times per week for the first month after planting. Maintain consistently moist soil. Give it 2 to 3 gallons of water each time. Water it once per week for the first year after transplanting.

Transplanting trumpet vine and raspberries

Q: Is there a secret to transplanting trumpet vine? When I dig up small plants that are sprouting and transplant them, they seem to die. Also, I have wild black raspberries growing in my yard. They are getting long, 8 to 10 feet. If I bury the tips in the ground will they root and start new plants? I worked on a berry farm once and I thought that this is what we did. If this is correct, would I cut them in the center once they are established?

A: Trumpet vine is fairly fool-proof - once it is established and in a location to its liking, it grows quickly and blooms profusely. The species bears orange flowers and some hybrids are available with dark red and bright yellow flowers.

I would think twice before planting this, though, given its rapid growth that I consider invasive. It grows as high and wide as 30 feet, which makes this a not-so-subtle addition to a landscape. The flowers are pretty and hummingbirds like them. So do ants. They find shelter within its vines and some folks find their presence objectionable.
So if you have space for this vine, by all means plant and enjoy it. I would not place it near a building though as its tendrils can make a mess of your home's siding - be it wood, vinyl, aluminum or brick.

The problem you are having with young plants not surviving transplanting could be due to a number of conditions. One could be not enough root system is being safely moved. Another could be follow-up care and yet another the youthfulness of the plant being moved.

I'd choose a young plant, but not one that has just sprouted. By young I mean perhaps one year old - and not one that is just developing independent roots and branch structure. Probably the best time to make the move would be early summer or early autumn - perhaps in mid-September and if you do so then, be sure to mulch around the base of the plant in late autumn to keep it from being heaved from the ground during freeze-thaw cycles.
Raspberry plants propagate easily. Red varieties generally produce small plants that come from the roots of the original plant. Most folks refer to these new plants as suckers and they are easily dug up and moved elsewhere.

Black and purple raspberries often grow canes so long that they tip and touch the soil where they can easily form new roots. Cover the tips with about three inches of soil and keep the soil moist. This will encourage rooting of the tip - but wait until next spring (if you are doing this now) to sever the new plant from the mother plant. This is an easy and quick way to increase the size of your berry patch.

When propagating plants this way, bear in mind that raspberries are subject to a number of viruses. Signs of a virus-infected plant include yellow leaves, spots on leaves and overall wilting and lethargy of the plant. Don't propagate plants that appear to be infected as the new plant will carry the virus as well.

Q: I have read that the use of wood chips as mulch on gardens and saplings robs them of nitrogen. Would you comment?

Theodore Sippel, Manchester

A: You are right - that wood chips seldom have the nitrogen needed by microbes for decomposition so the hungry microbes turn to the soil for what's missing in the chips and this, in turn, can rob seedlings of nitrogen they need for robust growth. In researching this question, I learned a few things - among them that the extent the chips are worked in the soil versus placed on the soil makes a difference and that full integration (decomposition) of the chips into the soil mass takes about 10 years.

A lot of folks use mulch strictly for its good looks - and it is hard to argue with this. I avoid it because of the maintenance involved in keeping it fresh looking. I use it only where the plants need it for soil moisture - the front of my home faces south and the siding is brick and the plants would bake without the bagged cypress mulch I put down every year. Some of the plants are perennials, some are annuals and I have not seen any loss of vigor because of the mulch.

I would not use mulch fresh from the sawmill or fresh from a chipper used to grind stumps or pruned branches. That stuff I'd heap into a pile and use it after it has decomposed for a year or two. I would not hesitate to use bagged mulch around annuals, perennials and shrubs. I would be cautious of bulk mulch unless you know how old it is. And I would be vigilant of any loss of plant vigor during the season - a plant struggling because of reduced nitrogen will show this by a general weakness, loss of vigor and a less-than-green leaf. Adding water-soluble fertilizer will help provide the missing nitrogen.

I would not use mulch on a garden where I am starting seeds. Here, I think you are asking for trouble with nitrogen issues.

I realize this answer is not 100 percent definitive. In sum, use mulch if you need it, don't use fresh mulch anywhere, especially around annual flowers and vegetables whose life is short to begin with, and be vigilant for nitrogen deprivation, which is seen by yellowing and loss of vigor of the plant. Applying fertilizer will help.

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Planting Trumpet Vine

Select small, healthy nursery plants or plant trumpet vine from divisions. Plant trumpet vine from early spring through late summer in mild areas.

Plant trumpet vine in a warm location that gets six to eight hours of sunlight daily. Trumpet vines need a strong structure, such as a rock wall or a heavy fence. Trumpet vine prefers slightly lean soil, but will grow in almost any soil. Loosen the soil in the area slightly and dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots.

Remove the plant from its pot and place it gently in the hole. Fill the hole with soil and tamp it down to remove any air pockets. Water the trumpet vine thoroughly immediately after planting and at least once per week or more in hot weather for the first six weeks.

Watch the video: How to Grow Allamanda Plant - Golden Trumpet Vine With Care Tips